THESKINI.COM

June 2005

Cape Escape

by Martina Priadka

Franshoek The adventure began from the moment I wheeled my suitcase past the rental car lot and discovered that my international drivers license did not prepare me for South Africa. Here they drive on the left. My heart rate increased to just below panic as I wondered, would they even let me take the car out of lot? To make matters worse, I had rented a manual which meant I would be shifting with my left hand and steering with my right while trying to maintain a consciousness about which side of the road to turn onto. I was betrayed by my instinct, nearly impossible to over power by will, as I signaled with the windshield wipers over and over again. Despite near panic, I made it through the week without injuring myself, others or the car (for the most part) and enjoyed the many treasures that South Africa offered me.

First stop was the town of Franschhoek. Rolling green hills turning to mountain coupled with the grape vines reminded me of drives through Napa and Sonoma in California. I did a stuttering halt in the parking space as far from the front door as I could get from a very charming Bed and Breakfast called La Petite Ferme. Known for its stunning views of the valley and the seasonal, country cuisine, La Petite Ferme is a sanctuary for lovers as well as wine aficionados. Although I was the only guest there alone, they made me feel exceptionally welcome, talking to me about the history and activities of the area while the other guests were stealing glances and kisses from one another. The spacious green lawn spreads out into the vineyards which produce over 80% of the grapes that go into La Petite Ferme wines. These stock your personal bar so you can try each one if you like. Enjoying a glass or two while stretching out on the lawn is a favorite afternoon pastime here. Each cottage (there are six) has its own private pool overlooking the vineyards and mountains and if that is not enough to relax you then the Jacuzzi tub inside should finish you off.

After an early rise and a beautiful breakfast of smoked local Salmon Trout, cereals, eggs, fresh fruit and cheeses and exceptional coffee I was ready for a day at the vineyards and wine tasting was on the agenda (see wineline). I never visit more than two vineyards a day and on this trip I kept it down to one. It is much more interesting to get to know the ins and outs of a vineyard rather than trying to drink as much wine as you can. So after a tour and some tastes, rather than attempting to drive again, I thought an afternoon on horseback sounded much better.

hotel

Riding through the vineyards just before sunset is a lovely way to see the countryside at a very relaxed pace. Fortunately my horse was more interested in grape leaf grazing than exercise so my lack of equestrian skills was not an issue.

After a quiet bath and a glass of La Petite Ferme Chardonnay to toast the sunset, I treated myself to a gastronomic delight. Haute Cabrière is a restaurant and wine cellar set into the mountainside giving the interior a castle-like feel. Chef Matthew Gordon offers a selection of dishes in large or small portions which can be matched by course to creations from the cellar below. I had to ask the server if I was actually getting the small portions because they were each impossibly large to finish based on my order of six courses. Lucky for me, I was a short, downhill walk from my B&B so I was able to fall into my fluffy bed without much effort at all.

The next morning it was time to hit the road again and I headed off to Robertson. The drive was much less hazardous now that I was getting the feel for the left hand driving although I still signaled a turn or two with the wipers. My navigational skills are also a little questionable which is how I ended up taking the scenic route through the mountains rather than the speedy overpass. I was rewarded for this mistake with breathtaking views and several wild baboon sightings, arriving to the vineyard only a half hour later than expected. Owner of Springfield Vineyards, Abrie Brewer, met me in the tasting room and the next thing I know, I was whisked off for lunch with his family. He was serving fresh fish caught from his boating trip over the weekend. It was delightful. After lunch, he decided to take me on a driving tour through the vineyards and even stopped to show me the abundantly growing succulent that produces something very close to fig or raisin tasting jelly. From there we were up in his plane for a bird’s eye view. After landing there was no time to waste. I had scheduled a tour through the nature preserve. Wait! I never tried the wines. Well maybe next time he suggested with a warm South African smile and offered to take me on a flip any time I come back through.

shark! After seeing Springbok, Wildebeests and Zebra my lust for animal adventure was sparked. I knew I was in an area that was home to more great white sharks than anywhere and I decided I had to see them for myself. It is easy to find cage diving tours and after looking through a few brochures and making a few phone calls, I chose White Shark Diving Co. Annamari made my reservation for me and assured me a safe and good time. I was picked up at 5:30 am and driven to a coastal town called Kleinbaai. There were five of us going out and the weather was good. Our hopes were high for seeing lots of sharks.

During our briefing we were assured there would be plenty of sharks even though they can not guarantee sightings. Annamari explained that the group from the day before came back early because there were so many sharks they had their fill. Once we got on board it was a quick and bumpy ride out to the area where we would anchor. We immediately donned our wet suits as they dropped the cage and the chum in the water. Coenie, our guide, positioned us on the edge of the boat above the cage. He told us to wait there until they spotted a shark and then to jump in immediately.

Sitting in the calm water with our legs dangling overboard searching the distance for shark fins was incredibly tense. It was an exaggeration of the feeling you get on a roller coaster as it slowly clicks its way up to the top of the first big drop.

And then we heard the call. “Shark”! We jumped in the cold water, held our breath and watched. There she was big, fast and coming right at us. All of a sudden there was another and another. We bobbed up and down going for breathes of air (we didn’t use tanks because the bubbles scare the sharks away) and were mesmerized by the languid beauty of these huge creatures. They were curious about us but with bellies full of seals from nearby Geyser Island, we were confident that the curiosity was not out of hunger. After a few last snapshots we reluctantly got out of the water. Before heading off we got one last rush as one of them jumped out of the water for just a nibble of the bait still floating near the boat. With a few shakes of her head and quick flash of teeth she was gone and it was time for us to head to shore.

The trip back was a quick one. Thanks to Annamari, Coenie, Phillip the Skipper and of course the sharks, I had seen what most people only see on the discovery channel up close and with my own eyes. I was completely worn out. Our drive back to my hotel was an hour and a half and I slept all the way.

It was exactly the sleep I needed to prepare me for my afternoon hike up to Table Mountain in Cape Town. I watched the sunset from the top and said goodbye to South Africa for the moment. As the sun melted into the sea, I smiled knowing I would be back for more very soon.

Travel Tips:

South Africa is rich in adventure and gastronomic delights. Here are a few recommendations from theskini.com to get you on your way.

La Petite Ferme
Seasonal, regional lunch as well as luxury guest cottages
Lunch available to the public. Breakfast included for guests
Franschhoek
lapetite@iafrica.com

Le Quartier Français, Tasting Room
6 Suites, 15 rooms
Relais and Chateaux
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
6 and 8 course tasting menus dinner only
Franschhoek
res@lqf.co.az
www.lequartier.co.za

French Country House and Villas
Monneaux Restaurant
14 suites and villas
In house restaurant, Monneaux, voted as one of the best restaurants in South Africa
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Franschhoek
info@fsc.co.za
www.fch.co.za

Haute Cabrière Cellar Restaurant
International Cuisine
Lunch daily, dinner seasonally
Franschhoek
hautecab@iafrica.com
www.hautecabriere.com

Reuben’s Restaurant and Bar
Lunch and dinner
Franschhoek
reubens@mweb.co.za

Fraai Uitzicht 1798
Wine, Guest Farm and Restaurant
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Axel Spanholtz is on of the most hospitable hosts in the business
Six private guest suites and main house
Zen gardens
Robertson
info@fraaiuitzicht.com
www.fraaiuitzicht.com

L’Avenir Wine Estate Guest House
9 rooms on a working wine estate
Stellenbosch
lavenir@adept.co.za

The Gallery Café
Lunch and dinner Monday - Saturday
Connected to art gallery and theme nights are common
Stellenbosch
pps@adept.co.za
www.dorpstreetgallery.co.za

White Shark Diving Company
Kleinbaai
sharkdiving@xsinet.co.za
www.sharkcagediving.co.za

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