June 2005

A Rebours

by martina Priadka

St. Paul is a city of hidden treasures. But the quiet downtown has always put the sound of tumbleweed in the ears of Minneapolitans. St. Paul residents know better and are quietly and happily settled into the many fabulous restaurants around town amused at the lack of initiative from their cosmopolitan neighbors. For those bi-apolitans who have made each side of the river their playground there is a new talented team to check out.

The Players

Doug Anderson: Owner
Michael Morse: General Manager
Roger Johnnson: Executive Chef
Patrick Atanalian: Chef de Cuisine
Matt Kempf: Sous Chef

The Scene

A classic French Bistro environment taken up a notch with white tablecloths and fresh flowers on each table. Generous lighting from the floor to ceiling windows. Plenty of bistro-like noise bouncing off the tile floors and mirrored walls. A chalk board of course, and a full house of bustling staff and fulfilled guests.

Those of you familiar with the book A Rebours, by French novelist Joris Huysmans, will understand the mood and drive of the restaurant. Those of you who are not may take a hint from Balthazar in New York (no wonder the brunch here is so good). Don’t know either of these? Then one visit will offer you a completely new experience.

Either Doug or Michael may greet you at the door, each with their own collection of New York sensibilities. Talking to them, they sound like they spend their down time engrossed in a chain smoking competition. But this is just part of the show that comes from the individuality involved in a restaurant whose name means to do things “against the grain or against nature”. And with a background like Anderson’s, which includes everything from cooking with Jeremiah Tower to working in just about every restaurant in New York, it is easy to believe he knows what he’s doing, whether it’s against the grain or not.

One of the themes in the namesake novel is that, in decadence, the idea is more desirable than the final product. But this restaurant is not a jewel bedecked tortoise taking his last overburdened step. Instead it is a continuous flow of ideas from many co-conspiriting and eclectic minds, thus giving balanced life to the physical final product.

The minds of the kitchen are Patrick Atanalian, who brings an authentic and traditional bistro style to the mix; Matt Kempf, who adds a sophisticated and subtle palate and Roger Johnnson who hops continents to orchestrate and fine tune. Each one of them is so drastically different but they blend together in a successful combination of personality and flavor creation. Bistro food is generally simple fare. “It’s all about execution and quality of product,” says Kempf. Simple does not mean lack of creativity, however. The food from this team is as traditional as it is innovative. Steak Frites is a very traditional bistro main prepared with onglet steak. At A Rebours the substitution of ribeye is served au poivre or with béarnaise. The pork tenderloin adds the modern touch of polenta and wilted arugula. Of course, you can’t have a French menu without escargot even if it is spiced up with a touch of wasabi. For those who want a little fine dining in the bistro experience, request a tasting menu. This let’s the chefs really flex, as they say.

But Anderson is not aiming in the fine dining direction. “People are not eating that way anymore…We are shooting for a bistro. I want people to be able to come here twice a week and not break them,” he says. With prices coming in under $14 for lunch, he is hitting pretty close to his goal. When asked why St. Paul is home to this bistro he says, “It looks more like a city to me. It reminds me of the old tribeca area of New York. People still have one foot in the last century. They are familiar with eating bone marrow.”

St Paul folk can count another point in their favor now with one more soon to follow when Anderson opens his next restaurant. Also aiming for a St. Paul location, the new place will have Kempf at the helm. This gives Minneapolitans just enough time to make it across the river and enjoy what this team has to offer before they branch out into even more success. Whether you are east or west of the river, here is an idea of what to look forward to when you get to A Rebours.

Salads
Mixed Greens, Goat Cheese Fondant, Hazelnuts, Sherry Vinaigrette
Bibb and Asparagus, Blue Cheese, Walnuts

Appetizers
Gravlax with Juniper and Lime Cured Cucumber Salad, Salmon Roe and Port Wine Mustard Emulsion
Escargot- Wasabi Butter, Fried Garlic, Navel Orange
Liver and Onions- Seared Foie Gras, Roasted Cippolini, Crisp Shallot
Mussels- Café des Paris Butter

Mains
Steak Frites- Beef Ribeye served Au Poivre or with Bernaise
Bacon Wrapped Monkfish- Gratin of Potato, Baby Vegetables, and Fennel Demi
Dayboat Halibut- Spring Vegetables, Truffled Sweet Pea Broth
Pork Tenderloin- Polenta Cake, Wilted Arugula, Thyme Buerre Rouge
Chicken Breast- Chevre Stuffed, Ratatouille, Braised Spinach

LUNCH: Monday through Friday, 11am-2pm,
DINNER: Sunday through Thursday 5pm-10pm, Friday & Saturday 5pm-11pm
BRUNCH: Saturday and Sunday from 9am -2pm
BAR MENU: 2pm-5pm daily
Check average: Lunch $14, Dinner $50, Brunch $15

A Rebours
410 St. Peter Street | St. Paul | 651.665.0656

...Now That's Theskini!::permalink


» send this article to a friend!

Email this entry to:

Your email address:

Message (optional):