July 2004

Osteria I Nonni

by Lionel Lau

Does nowhere have a middle? Well, if “nowhere” is I Nonni and “middle” is beef carpaccio, then yes, nowhere has the best middle in town. Well, it’s hard to say ‘in town’. Walking distance? Maybe for David Caradine in his Kung Fu days. But I do highly recommend traveling to this distant land although you may need some travel tips to do so. Well then, here you go-

Pack light. As in, don’t wear a belt unless you intend to unbuckle it at the end of the meal, in which case you stand to receive a scolding from your, well, Nonna. In any case, you’ll probably eat a lot. Don’t let your antipasti, primi and secondi get in the way of dessert.

Recommendations:
Beef Carpaccio, Pan Fried Veal Liver with Cippoline Onion Agro-Dolce, the Cioppino-like Shellfish Stew with Saffron… all quite worthy. Oh, and the Mascarpone Stuffed Pear for dessert is a must.

Hmm, sober cab? The wine list is a fine study of Italy with amazingly reasonable prices and the staff is ready to answer questions, offer suggestions and let the wine flow. Plus, the cocktail menu has some interesting creations, often using some lesser-known Italian spirits. For example, the Nonni - prosecco, limoncello, bitters and sugar or the Amalfi Martini – mezzaluna vodka, limoncello and a lemon twist are both creative and tasty indulgences. Take little Timmy along, let the boy eat, then show him where the clutch is and see if he can make it home while you ‘crash’ in the backseat. By the way, with the shellfish stew mentioned earlier, try a bottle of Falanghina.

Bring friends, family, whomever you desire… just make sure that everyone is in a festive mood. This restaurant, while more than just a ‘casual joint’, is hardly uptight. There is a friendly atmosphere, and uptight stiffnecks would probably have a better time at the government center, or worse, the airport food court.

Great. Take this into consideration and you should prove to be a fine foreign diplomat. Just don’t leave your passport and visa at home.

Plan on spending $30 - $50 per person with a reasonably priced wine selection.

5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Happy Hour 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday

For menus or information go to www.buongiornoitalia.biz

Osteria I Nonni
981 Sibley Hwy • Lilydale, MN • 651.905.1080

...Now That's Theskini!::permalink


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